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Post by Gothic Kustomz on Dec 25, 2012 5:17:05 GMT -5
This is by all means just to KILL"R!, it just looks ike the long trans axle is a just a lil bit to, ummmmm? angeld, would blow some bearings, yeah I know this is only a model, but might I make 2 suggestion's? (1) could you lower the trans, and engine, by notching the frame? (2) maybe, C notch the frame at the axle ends?, just a thought, kewl build none the less.....
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Post by darkside on Dec 25, 2012 10:54:21 GMT -5
I would need to raise the engine/trans to level out the axles and I have already raised it about 1/4", any more and the engine wont fit under the doghouse. You also have to take account that this is a parked stance, it will be laying frame, or should I say cylinders. When you air it up to drive, the axles would much more level. Anyway, back to progress or rather one step backward one step forward. I jinxed myself on clearance and had to rework the frame a bit I've got a more interesting looking frame now. First I needed some motor mounts to have a stable engine/trans. It starts with some simple 1/16" rod through the frame.  With a mounting point on the trans for the axles, it was soon apparent I was going to lose too much of the frame rail to even remotely look possible in real life. After a little thought I came up with this box idea. First step, make a box.  Then it was time to locate and sand out the notches for clearance and cement in some .010 sheet filler.   The engine looks right at home in here.  |
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Post by Steve-o on Dec 25, 2012 11:09:21 GMT -5
Everything is looking great !!!
What a cool project ... ;D 
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Post by rustyrat1960 on Dec 25, 2012 11:47:01 GMT -5
I Love the nose on this Dave!! It looks perfect!! Thank You for sharing Later Russ 
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Post by darkside on Dec 26, 2012 23:45:20 GMT -5
I lost a door and had to make a new one. Cut and shaped a new one using 2 pieces of .040 sheet,  First round of white, I'll sand this down tomorrow and give it a couple more coats.    The frame, it still needs to be cleared.  More parts.  |
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Post by darkside on Dec 28, 2012 11:11:03 GMT -5
I started making the door panels.    I've got the 2 coats of pearl on the body and will let it sit for a few days while I ponder my design for the graphics. It's hard to get the pearl to show up in the pics, this was the best shot.  I'm toying with ideas for grille inserts. Here's a set of tube grilles I'm working on.  A set of headers I've just about got done.  |
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Post by JerryG on Dec 28, 2012 14:50:08 GMT -5
Wow this awesome man. I like your thinking on design. Lot of scratch building going on..super work. Can't wait to see it progress.
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Post by rustyrat1960 on Dec 28, 2012 15:42:38 GMT -5
 Hey Dave, when You bend your headers is it a matter of eye-balling it? And do you heat the rod, bend a little, heat some, bend some more? I got no luck at all with hand shaping those things!  This build is looking "super-awesome" Man!! Thank You for sharing here! Later Russ i am watching! 
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Post by darkside on Dec 28, 2012 16:31:08 GMT -5
Russ, I try to bend everything cold, then heat set it if needed.
I found using heat to make the bend can to easily distort the rod, let alone be a PITA to get a clean bend.
To cold bend small diameter rod, I hold the rod between each thumb and forefinger, then using the end of my thumbnails (they should be back to back) as my pivot point, slowly start making the bend. I bend about 20 degrees initially, pause for a couple of seconds, then finish in about 5 degree intervals until I reach the bend I need.
If you need a larger radius, use the same approach, but wrap the rod around something the diameter you need for your radius.
Many times I never use heat if the part is a piece in an assembly that will hold it when cemented together.
When I do you heat, it is to set the pieces, not to make the bend. Heat setting a part, uses MUCH less heat than it takes to make the bend.
When I made these headers out of 3/64" rod, I bent it cold, held the shape I wanted and just passed a lighter under it once to set the bend. When you heat set it, that is the position the plastic will want to stay, until you add heat to it again.
I hope that made sense, if not, I'll try to explain it better.
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Post by darkside on Dec 28, 2012 23:17:29 GMT -5
Some more work on the exhaust. The headers are made from 3/64" rod, the pipes are .100 rod, the flanges are scrap .030, the muffler is 1/4" tube that I flattened to an oval then capped with some .030 and the tailpipe is 1/8" rod with the end drilled out. It was a bit of a pain to line everything up, but I managed to get it together.    |
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Post by darkside on Dec 30, 2012 9:49:22 GMT -5
I found the door, not that I need it now. I've mostly been painting with just a little fab work. I made the controls for the steering wheel, unfortunately I broke the brake lever and will have to redo it.  The exhaust came out pretty good and actually fits!    The new grilles.  |
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Post by Steve-o on Dec 30, 2012 12:32:09 GMT -5
This is really looking mighty sweet !!! ;D
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Post by Gothic Kustomz on Dec 31, 2012 12:17:55 GMT -5
I'm getting this, and man I'm gonna roll it like mad, thank for showing how you did the rear, and this is just looking insane.
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Post by rustyrat1960 on Dec 31, 2012 14:19:39 GMT -5
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JulieG
New Member
It's ALL art!
Posts: 45
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Post by JulieG on Jan 1, 2013 17:03:47 GMT -5
Wow! It's coming along nicely. This is very interesting.
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